What is the best tomato to grow in Houston Texas. It is hot and very humid here. My favorite tomato is Early Goliath, but it doesn't seem to do well here.
J.
****************************************
Dear J,
Thank you for your question regarding a good tomato variety for Texas. While I was working on this, I had another customer that called in with the exact same question. Houston must be a difficult place for tomatoes!
During my research, I found:
--In the Lazy Gardener's Guide, Brenda Beust Smith recommends the following:
--Champion*
--Celebrity *
--Dona
--German Johnson*
--Hawaiian
--Sweet Chelsea*
--Texas Wild
--In Year Round Fruits and Vegetables, Bob Randall recommends these (In order from large to small, with some repeats from Smith's list):
--Super Marmande (early)
--Dona (early)
--Carmello
--Big Beef*
--Arkansas Traveler (late)*
--Sweet Chelsea*
--Super Sweet 100*
--Texas wild (Produces in summer)
--Viva Italia (cooking)*
--Sunmaster (Produces in summer)
--The Houston Garden Book recommends these for containerized tomato growing:
--Patio Hybrid*
--Pixie
--Tiny Tim*
--Saladette
--Stakeless
--Atom
(Those with * indicate varieties carried by Totally Tomatoes, a catalog that is well-respected in the industry and that has a plethora of "Solana-cious" plants like tomatoes and peppers.)
For better information on growing tomatoes here in the Houston Metro Area, I strongly recommend getting copies of the books by Smith and Randall. These are most easily obtained by going to Urban Harvest (www.urbanharvest.org).
Wisconsin Seed Girl
Horticulturist
Hello and hope you are having a great day. Love your blog! I am trying to find out if there are any cucumbers, tomatoes, and squash that can be grown in the greenhouse in the winter that will set fruit without the aid of beas? Do you know where I can get them? Thanks so much, DZ
**********************************
Dear DZ,
Dear Wiseedgirl,
I have questions about the Pear Goliath Tomato.
1. how tall will it get?
2. good for making sauce?
3. is it an early variety?
Also, what does indeterminate mean? How tall will it get?
I have limited space for planting.
Tunneler
********************
Dear Tunnerler,
Thank you for your questions.
1. Pear Goliath is a deternate variety. Depending on environmental conditions, your tomatoes will grow to 2-4 feet tall (2 if stressed, 4 if perfect coditions and no disease).
2. It is a saladette-type of tomato. While it will not make as thick and rich of sauce initially, it will make a better sauce than a slicing tomato would. I like to mix saladette tomatoes with slicing tomatoes if I am making stock for soups or chili or with paste tomatoes if I am making spaghetti sauce.
3. No, it is not. Early varieties are usually around 60 days after transplant. With Pear Goliath at 90 days after transplant, it is definitely a late season variety.
Indeterminate varieties of tomatoes are also called "vining" tomatoes. They will grow and produce fruit until killed by frost and can reach heights of up to 10 feet although 6 feet is considered the norm. They will bloom, set new fruit and ripen fruit all at the same time throughout the growing season. They require substantial caging and/or staking for support. Because of the need for substantial support and the size of the plants, indeterminate varieties are not usually recommended as container plants. Examples are: Big Boy, Beef Master, most cherry types, Early Girl, and most heirloom varieties.
I hope this helps you out. If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask!
Happy Gardening!
Wisconsin Seed Girl
Horticulturist
what black tomato varieties grow best in a topsy turvy. i am interested in a pear or plum tomato.
thankx
inverted
***********************************
Dear Inverted,
Thank you for the question regarding tomatoes grown in a Topsy-Turvy Pot (http://topsyturvys.com/). It is amazing that they can be grown upside down!
As for the black tomatoes I would recommend:
Plum: Black Plum Heirloom Tomato. This is a very prolific Russian strain, whose brownish-gray fruits are so sweet and meaty that some prefer it to Roma for making sauces. It is also excellent when used for a salad or sun-dried tomato. The oval fruits are about 2-4 ounces each and turn this incredible mahogany-brown color when mature. It is an excellent yielder.
Pear: Japanese Black Trifele. This tomato produces loads of pear-shaped tomatoes that are blemish- and crack- free. Colors range from intense black to dark grey with a hint of magenta. Plants produce prolific yields of picture-perfect 3-5 ounce fruits that look stunning when sliced up and arranged on a plate. They are good for canning because they hold their color well.
Both Black Plum and Japanese Black Trifele are indeterminate. This means that they continue to grow in height throughout the summer (as opposed to determinate, which grow to a certain height and stop).
If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to send them my way.
Happy Gardening!
Wisconsin Seed Girl
Horticulturist
I was wondering if Crimson Sweet Watermelon and Kleckley Sweet Watermelon are resistant to BFB.
Cager
**********************************
Dear Cager,
Thank you for your call regarding Bacterial Fruit Blotch on watermelons. Crimson Sweet and Kleckey Sweet are more resistant that some of the popular varieties. The rule of thumb I like to stick with is:
Least Resistant: Light-colored rind melons (i.e. Charleston Grey)
Some Resistance: Bicolored rind melons with light and dark 'rattlesnake-style" stripes (i.e. Crimson Sweet)
Most Resistant: Dark-colored rind melons (i.e. Kleckley Sweet)
Darker-skinned varieties are able to keep bacterial growth at bay because the skin heats up during the day. Bacterial Fruit Blotch is viable up to about 105-110 degrees. During a warm, sunny day, it is possible for a dark-skinned watermelon to reach temperatures of 130 degrees -- thereby killing the bacteria on the surface of the melon.
Also, younger melons are more susceptible to the disease. As the melon grows, the rind becomes harder and less susceptible to bacterial infection. It has been suggested that putting young, developing melons on screens above the ground helps; however, preciptation splashing up from the soil may transfer the bacteria onto the melon.
I hope that helps you out. If I can answer any other questions for you, please let me know.
Happy Gardening!
Wisconsin Seed Girl
Horticulturist
Hello guys at wiseedgirl,
Im writing about we got honey bees I would like to plant Peranul Flowers that bloom from spring till frost maybe about 2 to 4 deffrent once its on south side of a woods along road bank fairly poor ground some I was looking at the red star for q what kind of edable fruit would it produce I don’t want one that makes bitter honey rather light honey I found one on Pacific Giant says bees would that be a good one
Also super select mix would you please give advise we are here in [undisclosed state] wher we get 90 to 100 weather sometime not frost till Nov. wher the red star would be is real ridge bottom ground not very wet
Would you wright + tell me Please + thank you
Apiculturist
*************************
Dear Apiculturist,
Thank you for your letter regarding perennials for your bees. In addition to the Pacific Giant Mixed Delphinium and Red Star Passiflora, I would recommend:
--Any of the other types of Delphinium (Cardinale, Centurion Sky Blue Hybrid, Rose and Pink Shades, Dwarf Blue Butterfly, or Summer Morning).
--Eryngium [Flat Sea Holly] (varieties Blue Glitter or Blue Hobbit).
--Ruby Bells Heuchera [Coral Bells].
--Munstead Dwarf Lavender.
--Panorama Mixed Monarda [Bee Balm].
--Any of the other types of Passiflora [Passion Flower] (Alata or Caerulea).
If you are interested in going with a perennial field crop, various types of alfalfa and clover make flavorful, light-colored honey.
I hope that helps you out. If I can help you out with any future questions, please do not hesitate to send them in.
Have A Great Day!
Wisconsin Seed Girl
Horticulturist
dear wiseedgirl,
please send me information on the difference in sweetness between watermelons. thank you,
rl
*****************************
Dear RL,
Thank you for your email regarding the Brix Index Rating for watermelons. An included sheet contains the average days to maturity, average fruit weight per plot (10 plants), and the sugar (Brix) percentage for varieties that I recommend.
Please note that the sugar content of a particular melon is based not only on its genetic makeup, but also on the environment that it is grown in. Stressful conditions (drought, soggy soil, heat, insect damage, etc.), soil composition, total fruit set, total degree days, and frequency/duration of precipitation can also play a role in the sugar content of a melon. These percentages may vary for the fruits you grow in your garden.
If you have any other questions related to melons or gardening in general, please do not hesitate to ask.
Happy Gardening!
Wisconsin Seed Girl
HorticulturistCultivar Days to Maturity Ave. Fruit Weight (lb.) Sugar (Brix) Apollo 80 18.7 11.9% Black Diamond 90 34.9 10.4% Black Diamond Yellow Flesh 90 40.1 10.6% Carolina Cross #183 Hybrid 90 69.0 9.5% Charleston Grey 85 28.2 9.8% Cobb (Kolb) Gem 100 50.6 9.7% Crimson Sweet 80 24.8 9.9% Golden Crown Hybrid 78 6.2 10.0% Honey Pot Hybrid 88 13.3 11.1% Jade Hybrid 86 10.5 9.4% Jubilee 96 9.7 9.7% King and Queen 100 9.2 8.6% Kleckley Sweets (Monte Cristo) 87 35.1 9.9% Moon and Stars (van Duran strain) 100 16.7 9.7% Moon and Stars Yellow Fleshed 95 15.4 9.9% New Queen Hybrid 87 5.9 10.5% Rattlesnake 90 37.4 10.2% Red Seeded Citron 100 20.2 NA Solitaire Hybrid Seedless 89 5.5 9.5% Sugar Baby 75 9.7 10.2% Sweet Beauty Hybrid 77-80 6.0 10.4% Sweet Favorite Hybrid 97 15.7 10.5% Tendersweet Yellow 90 37.9 9.8% Tom Watson 90 34.5 9.2% Trillion Seedless Hybrid 95 15.9 9.0% Triple Crown 80-82 18.6 10.1% Yellow Doll 65 6.0 10.6% Yellow Mini Tiger Seedless 75 3.7 11.8%
If it is my mom: oh, are we on the grandchildren kick again or is this that I don't use my money wisely?
Anyone else: depends on the person.
When I was a kid, my folks grew Pride of Muscatine Watermelon. I remember seeing it in R.H. Shumway's catalog about 40 years ago, but haven't seen it recently. I live near Muscatine and would love to grow it again. Is this seed still on the market, and if so, where can I find it?
Thank you kindly,
Ioway Meloner
****************************************
Dear Ioway Meloner,
Have a great day!
Wisconsin Seed Girl
Horticulturist
***********************************
Ioway Meloner
I hear that you are promoting the new autumn revolution bittersweet. Why are you promoting an invasive species? The government is paying tons of money to get rid of it. Are you nuts?
Chopping and Digging Roots
************************************
Dear Chopping and Digging,
Thank you for your call regarding the 'Autumn Revolution' cultivar of bittersweet. While you are correct that some types of bittersweet are invasive species, I am glad to tell you that this one is not.
You are thinking of Oriental Bittersweet. Oriental Bittersweet is better known as Celastrus orbiculatus, a deciduous woody perennial plant which grows as a climbing vine and a trailing shrub. The leaves are alternate, glossy, nearly as wide as they are long (round), with finely toothed margins. There are separate female (fruiting) and male (non-fruiting) plants. Female plants produce clusters of small greenish flowers in axillary clusters (from most leaf axils), and each plant can produce large numbers of fruits and seeds. The fruits are three-valved, yellow, globular capsules that at maturity split open to reveal three red-orange, fleshy arils each containing one or two seeds. The abundance of showy fruits have made Oriental Bittersweet extremely popular for use in floral arrangements. Oriental Bittersweet is such a vigorously growing vine that it actually climbs over and around other vegetation. This results in smothering the victim plant and it may die from excessive shading or breakage. When bittersweet climbs high up on trees the increased weight can lead to uprooting and blow-over during high winds and heavy snowfalls.
On the other hand, we have the 'good guy': American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens). It is a twining, climbing vine capable of a height of 20 feet but more normally found sprawling on fences. American Bittersweet fruites are produced in July - October and are 1/4 inch round, hanging in clusters 2-4 inches long. These eventually split open to reveal bright red fleshy seeds that are very showy in Autumn. American Bittersweet prefers a sunny location and is found natively in the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic regions. The clinbing growth habit makes it a valuable ornamental plant.
NOTE: Because Oriental Bittersweet can be confused with our native American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) which is becoming less and less common, it is imperative that correct identification be made before any control is begun. American Bittersweet produces flowers (and fruits) in single terminal panicles at the tips of the stems; flower panicles and fruit clusters are about as long as the leaves; the leaves are nearly twice as long as wide and are tapered at each end. Oriental Bittersweet produces flowers in small axillary clusters that are shorter than the subtending leaves and the leaves are very rounded. Comparing the two, American Bittersweet has fewer, larger clusters of fruits whereas Oriental Bittersweet is a prolific fruiter with lots and lots of fruit clusters emerging at many points along the stem. Unfortunately, hybrids of the two occur which may make identification more difficult. In addition, Oriental Bittersweet is displacing our native American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) through competition and hybridization.
'Autumn Revolution' is also known as Celastrus scandens cultivar 'Bailumn'. It not only produces fruit on every plant, every time, but the crop is abundant and the berries are twice as large as others in the species. Unlike common American Bittersweet, this variety has perfect flowers that include both male and female parts so you need only one plant for fruiting. Bright orange to red berries are displayed against glossy green foliage that lines the 15 to 25 foot long vines.
With 'Autumn Revolution' there is no need to worry that you are planting an invasive species.
Thank you for your concern. If you have any further questions, please let me know.
Wisconsin Seed Girl
Horticulturist